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Shifter Handle (removal)

8519 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  madlag
This is a stupid question, but has anyone taken off their shifter handle? I got a cool new one and went to take mine off and attempted the perverbal unscrew and thought I was going to break something. Does it unscrew? Locktighted? Not ready to break something yet.
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It has lock tight on it from the factory and is very hard to break loose. If you have a strap wrench it'll make it much easier.
It has lock tight on it from the factory and is very hard to break loose. If you have a strap wrench it'll make it much easier.
Lock tight for sure, I think they used the Red version (stud mount) lol. :mad:

Measuring instrument Circle Font Auto part Gauge


Thought this was an appropriate shift handle for our car...
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Nice and correct
Nice shifter ball Jim T....Auto Fanatics has a great You Tube vid on removing the shifter handle as well as quieting the 2nd and 3rd gear handle buzz...which you may as well do while you have the shifter ball off...
[video=youtube;5qJK_5vf0J0]https://youtu.be/5qJK_5vf0J0[/video]
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Forgot to add, I have a carbon fiber shifter knob en route and will be doing this mod myself shortly!!
Thanks, looks like a smart repair while I’m in there.
Thanks, looks like a smart repair while I’m in there.
Unfortunately the Ford CF shifter knob (#FR3Z-7213-D) will not fit our Tremac Shift handle (threads too large), so having to send it back. I went ahead and did the shifter buzz/rattle fix while I had everything apart. Scuffed up the stock shift handle as it was extremely tough to remove!! A strap wrench or soft grip pliers would be best. My larger channel lock pliers slipped several times and caused the scuffing...

Question, the rubber insulating boot that sits on top of the tranny tunnel opening for the shift linkage, mine was not attached to the floor and was just sitting on top of the white insulation...on past manual cars, it's actually been inserted into the top of the tranny tunnel linkage opening to reduce noise and seal up the shift linkage opening. Can someone confirm this is the case or was mine not assembled correctly....looks like I'm going to have to remove the entire console to get a proper look and I don't want to go to all the trouble if this is normal. Also, the rubber boot was turned sideways so the arrow was pointing towards the driver, not forward...

Check out the vid where he removes the shifter handle boot. The arrow on his rubber boot is pointing towards the passenger forward area and the boot appears to be just sitting on top of the insulation as well...
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Question, the rubber insulating boot that sits on top of the tranny tunnel opening for the shift linkage, mine was not attached to the floor and was just sitting on top of the white insulation...on past manual cars, it's actually been inserted into the top of the tranny tunnel linkage opening to reduce noise and seal up the shift linkage opening. Can someone confirm this is the case or was mine not assembled correctly....looks like I'm going to have to remove the entire console to get a proper look and I don't want to go to all the trouble if this is normal. Also, the rubber boot was turned sideways so the arrow was pointing towards the driver, not forward...

Check out the vid where he removes the shifter handle boot. The arrow on his rubber boot is pointing towards the passenger forward area and the boot appears to be just sitting on top of the insulation as well...
Hey JimT, just following up on my question above...did you ever do your shifter handle swap? Would be curious to know what you found under the shift boot (see details above)? Thx!!
Unfortunately the Ford CF shifter knob (#FR3Z-7213-D) will not fit our Tremac Shift handle (threads too large), so having to send it back. I went ahead and did the shifter buzz/rattle fix while I had everything apart. Scuffed up the stock shift handle as it was extremely tough to remove!! A strap wrench or soft grip pliers would be best. My larger channel lock pliers slipped several times and caused the scuffing...

Question, the rubber insulating boot that sits on top of the tranny tunnel opening for the shift linkage, mine was not attached to the floor and was just sitting on top of the white insulation...on past manual cars, it's actually been inserted into the top of the tranny tunnel linkage opening to reduce noise and seal up the shift linkage opening. Can someone confirm this is the case or was mine not assembled correctly....looks like I'm going to have to remove the entire console to get a proper look and I don't want to go to all the trouble if this is normal. Also, the rubber boot was turned sideways so the arrow was pointing towards the driver, not forward...

Check out the vid where he removes the shifter handle boot. The arrow on his rubber boot is pointing towards the passenger forward area and the boot appears to be just sitting on top of the insulation as well...
If I recall correctly, there are 2 boots. One above the insulation and a second one below the insulation. The below the insulation boot is the primary that engages with the tunnel sheet metal and the shifter body. attached video shows them both at ~2:25. Installing the MGW shifter they supplied their own boot and I really struggled to get it snapped into the tunnel sheetmetal. Took me awhile. The OE boot popped out easy. Maybe a bad day in Flat Rock and the assembler didn't both snapping in the boot on your car.

[video=youtube;alLaeI8ZTBY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=157&v=alLaeI8ZTBY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=157&v=alLaeI8ZTBY[/video]
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Thanks Svtride appreciate the info...saved me from having to pull the console - much appreciated!
I cannot get my knob off. I have a one of those rubber clamps but no luck... the shaft itself flexes essentially preventing it from breaking loose.


Edit: broke it loose finally. My friends soft grip Knippex wouldn’t do it either. I had to use my large channel locks. I cannot believe it was on there that tight. Tore the faux leather on it but otherwise fine especially considering it will no longer be used... I’ll prob order a replacement to put into the stock parts box I’m collecting or in case I ever decide to go back it it (which again, I seriously doubt).
A strap wrench and a microfiber towel works well and causes no damage. Patience is your friend on this job.
A strap wrench and a microfiber towel works well and causes no damage. Patience is your friend on this job.
Tried for an hour. Two diff strap wrenches and knippex soft grips. No avail. Was all I could do with channel locks. Loctite was everywhere..
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