Oil Change

I am staying with the Motorcraft for warranty issues. Don't want to leave any reason if issues occur

It's in the owner's manual under the engine break-in. Says to avoid WOT for the first few hundred miles and then have the oil changed at 1000, after that you can drive at WOT for extended periods (track driving). I had mine done at the dealership for less than the price of the oil and filter from the parts counter. I assume there is a mark-up for the oil and filter if you buy it at the counter, unless the parts guy just quoted me wrong. Even if I was paying the same price for the parts as the dealer oil change, it was worth the hassle free experience as the filter change can be messy (per videos and reviews of the DIY oil changes).

Stick with the Motorcraft oil in light of some of the engine issues that have been surfacing. Keep all receipts for everything and log all maintenance activity.
I do all my own oil changes. It gives you a good opportunity to inspect everything while car is in the air. Keep an eye on how much you've scrubbed the front splitter.

Svt do you just log it in your manual ?

Thanks everyone, that's my plan and good to know what you guys are doing. I too like to change my own oil, and save receipts, etc. Have 600+ miles on it now and just back from a short run, had it up to 6500rpms (for a short while) and man does this engine spool up quickly over 4K - 4.5K!! Going to be fun!!

Svtride said:

Stick with the Motorcraft oil in light of some of the engine issues that have been surfacing. Keep all receipts for everything and log all maintenance activity.
I do all my own oil changes. It gives you a good opportunity to inspect everything while car is in the air. Keep an eye on how much you've scrubbed the front splitter.

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LOL, on the scrubbing the front splitter, impossible not to, need to get off my lazy rear end and install the ZL1 washers!! I've been pretty good with mine so far but have nicked it a few times!! Need to get ramps as the front end is too low to get under with tools to install washers...wish I had access to a lift, that would be sweet!

HotLap said:

LOL, on the scrubbing the front splitter, impossible not to, need to get off my lazy rear end and install the ZL1 washers!! I've been pretty good with mine so far but have nicked it a few times!! Need to get ramps as the front end is too low to get under with tools to install washers...wish I had access to a lift, that would be sweet!

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Hey HotLap, good luck finding any ramps. The closest I could find were RaceRamps but even those were about a half a degree too steep. I decided to get a low profile floor jack from JEGS. When it arrives tomorrow I'll try it out to see what works as far as jack stands. As an alternative I might just make some 4x4 solid platforms to put under the wheels. That might be easier.

BobSoFine said:

Hey HotLap, good luck finding any ramps. The closest I could find were RaceRamps but even those were about a half a degree too steep. I decided to get a low profile floor jack from JEGS. When it arrives tomorrow I'll try it out to see what works as far as jack stands. As an alternative I might just make some 4x4 solid platforms to put under the wheels. That might be easier.

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Bob, The more I research ramps, the more I'm becoming convinced that I may just go ahead with the jacking rails and jack stands. Just using a floor jack on the uni-body rails (in the normal) jack area doesn't feel all that secure feels as if the unibody rails are going to tweak...prolly silly I know. But the jacking rails would help to distribute the weight better. Only downside with ramps is you can't remove a wheel and I'd like a single solution for both oil changes and wheel removal. Limited storage space in garage and already have a floor jack and jack stands...let me know how your solution works and good luck sir!

Texas Voodu said:

Svt do you just log it in your manual ?

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I made a separate log sheet, Excel file; Date, Mileage, Service Activity description, and who performed the tasks. Keep it in the owners manual.
I've used the format for years with many cars along with a file cabinet with folders for each car's supporting docs and receipts. All very beneficial when selling the car privately.

Svt awesome great info
Thanks

If found these a little while ago, wheel cribs
https://raceramps.com/car-ramps/garage-and-service-ramps/12-wheel-cribs/
They're available in 8, 10, and 12 inch heights. One model is two piece so you can fine tune the height. They're definitely more secure then jack stands. If you get the split model you have a lot of flexibility in using then.

Update: I ordered a pair of cribs, 10" split. Should arrive on 10/31. I'll post a review after I get this.

HotLap said:

Bob, The more I research ramps, the more I'm becoming convinced that I may just go ahead with the jacking rails and jack stands. Just using a floor jack on the uni-body rails (in the normal) jack area doesn't feel all that secure feels as if the unibody rails are going to tweak...prolly silly I know. But the jacking rails would help to distribute the weight better. Only downside with ramps is you can't remove a wheel and I'd like a single solution for both oil changes and wheel removal. Limited storage space in garage and already have a floor jack and jack stands...let me know how your solution works and good luck sir!

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BTW I got one of those magnetic plates that fit around the pinch welds and ride on the floor jack pad. They're around $25 on Amazon. I can get you the link if you're interested.

I was thinking about the same thing. After scraping the bottom of the front splitter a few times, i am interested to see what kind of damage is underneath when i do the first oil change.

Svtride said:

I made a separate log sheet, Excel file; Date, Mileage, Service Activity description, and who performed the tasks. Keep it in the owners manual.
I've used the format for years with many cars along with a file cabinet with folders for each car's supporting docs and receipts. All very beneficial when selling the car privately.

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Been doing the same thing for my Harley's and cars. It also helps remind me when to do service. I also keep a separate page for accessories with part numbers and costs. This help with insurance values. I also scan receipts in case I need to have proof for any insurance or warranty claims. A bit anal but I am what I am <grin>.

Fellas - just got the first oil change done at the dealership and a few questions about what others did and paid.
1 - Had them use the synthetic 5W-50 oil as recommended.
2 - Used the oil filter that was mailed to me as part of the supplement package

And the question for those who changed their oil at the dealership, is how much did you pay ?
I went to RSM Ford and was charged total of $143.12
$113.00 for parts (oil) - total of 10 qts
$18.00 labor
Balance was disposal fee and tax.

How does that compare with what others have paid ?
I am not complaining, since I don't have the facility to replace it myself, just looking to have a point of reference.

I have done all my own oil changes. I get oil online for under $100 a case. The filters are $13.35 at Rock Auto. I don't have a facility either but I do have a driveway.

I fully understand that warranties are a touchy subject and everyone has their own personal tolerance level, but you guys put waaaay too much stock in Motorcraft oil for that reason alone. There's better oil out there that meets (and exceeds) Ford's specifications. If an oil meets that spec, you gain nothing, including warranty protection, by sticking with Motorcraft oil.

MC 5w50 12 qt case 94.50(Ebay) MC FL2062 filter 8.46 (Ebay) Labor at dealer 15.00=119.86

Changed the oil at local Ford Dealership (has a good service reputation) at just over 1100 miles. Used the Ford oil and filter the selling dealership gave me since I bought it out of state and had car shipped to me. Car used about .5 quart of oil even though did "break-in" type driving for the first several hundred miles. The old oil was passed through an oil screen and the filter was opened and checked, with nothing unusual noted. While on the lift, had them check for any leaks around the oil pressure switch, and that was normal also.

As an additional precaution, sent a sample off to Blackstone. Just looking for anything unusual and establishing a baseline.

If the report comes back with any anomalies, I will let folks know. I'm not happy about the .5 quart low, but hoping it may be related to initial engine break-in.