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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Just joined and posted my welcome. 2 weeks ago purchased a gorgeous 2018 GT350R with 1280 miles. 210 miles since, 168 from the drive home. I am the second owner, this was purchased from a Ford dealer. Only modifications from the original owner was a red ball shift knob, tints and JLT AOS’s, passenger and driver sides.

Scoping out the JLT’s, figured out how to open and drain them. In opening the passenger side, I noticed a small amount of oil pooling on the bottom, so exactly what I’ve read, none on the driver’s, okay fine. However, I then noticed some shiny metallic glitter in the oil. WTF??? Has anyone else noticed this? I did a bunch of searching, seems others with performance GM’s, Mopars, etc have seen this, some attribute to the filter media. I contacted JLT but really no helpful info.

I have an appointment with my local Ford dealer to have it checked out. Additional info; dealer I purchased the car from did an oil change when they bought the car from the original owner. I can’t see any record there was any other oil change. Don’t know if it’s necessary for an earlier oil change for break in.

I really don’t want to go down a path of needing the engine pulled, diagnosis, etc,etc. I have been down that road with the WRX; 4 times over. Thought I was DONE with that! At least in this case is original power train 5year/60K and I bought the dealer’s extended warranty.

Any thoughts here would be appreciated, thanks everyone.
 

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2019 GT350 Shadow Black/White Stripes
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The oil that accumilates in the seperators come from the bypass vapors so to speak. I don't see how metal flakes that might be in the oil from the engine, could be drawn up through the valve covers. So it sounds like something in the JLT unit itself.
Have you seen any metal flakes on the oil dipstick? Other than draining some oil, or doing an oil change and examining it and the filter, you won't know if it's from the engine.
My guess is the flakes are from the machining process used to make the JLT's. If so, they would be aluminum, not iron based. Get a magnet, and see if the flakes stick to it. If not, it's from the unit itself. If they do stick, then further diagnosis of the engine may be necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Bob,

Thanks for reply. Did try the magnet, non-ferrous material. No signs of flakes on the dipstick. Will be bringing to dealer coming Monday. Have no way of jacking car right now, too low even for my Race Ramps. Have Quick Jacks on order. And I think the bearing surfaces are some kind of aluminum alloy.

I’ll ask the dealer to check the oil and the filter, also save some and send to Blackstone.
 

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Were there any color to the flakes? If copper colored, its a bearing. Also being non-magnetic could also point to crank or cam bearings.

How has your oil pressure looked? Usually with a bearing going, you're gonna be putting metal flakes through the head and also through the oil pump, which will degrade the pump. So you'll start to see flags at hot idle. Whats your hot idle oil pressure? Should be 44-45 psi. If you're anything below that, personally, I'd have the car towed to the dealer.

As for any machining material, I have a JLT catch can on my Raptor for the last 50k miles, and I've never seen metal in it (truck has 73k non-oil consuming miles).

Ask to be present when they are pulling the oil. You're going to want 3 samples. Initial, middle, and end of drain. 1oz of each is sufficent. You want to maximize the chance of getting the metal. And ask them to cut the filter open in front of you. Thats going to be very telling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Were there any color to the flakes? If copper colored, its a bearing. Also being non-magnetic could also point to crank or cam bearings.

How has your oil pressure looked? Usually with a bearing going, you're gonna be putting metal flakes through the head and also through the oil pump, which will degrade the pump. So you'll start to see flags at hot idle. Whats your hot idle oil pressure? Should be 44-45 psi. If you're anything below that, personally, I'd have the car towed to the dealer.

As for any machining material, I have a JLT catch can on my Raptor for the last 50k miles, and I've never seen metal in it (truck has 73k non-oil consuming miles).

Ask to be present when they are pulling the oil. You're going to want 3 samples. Initial, middle, and end of drain. 1oz of each is sufficent. You want to maximize the chance of getting the metal. And ask them to cut the filter open in front of you. Thats going to be very telling.
All flakes are usual silvery metal, no coloration. Oil pressure is nominal. Love the fact that there‘s the most important gauges, oil temp and pressure, right on the dash! Last car spent a small fortune on gauges.

Thanks for the advice, I hadn’t planned on being present. I’ll see what I can do.
 

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All flakes are usual silvery metal, no coloration. Oil pressure is nominal. Love the fact that there‘s the most important gauges, oil temp and pressure, right on the dash! Last car spent a small fortune on gauges.

Thanks for the advice, I hadn’t planned on being present. I’ll see what I can do.
That’s optimistic. However, I had silver filings in the oil pan of my old cammed camaro and it turned out to be cam bearing material. Found some in my catch can and then a horror show when we pulled the pan. I caught wind of it when my oil pressure was about 2-3 psi low.

I hold out Hope for you,voodoo motors are incredibly expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That’s optimistic. However, I had silver filings in the oil pan of my old cammed camaro and it turned out to be cam bearing material. Found some in my catch can and then a horror show when we pulled the pan. I caught wind of it when my oil pressure was about 2-3 psi low.

I hold out Hope for you,voodoo motors are incredibly expensive.
Thanks, you don’t have to tell me.

I bought the car from a Ford dealer in PA. According to their paperwork, PA required them to do an oil change for an “As Is”, no warranty deal. In theory if there was a major issue they should have caught it. I asked them if they saw anything, of course service report made no mention. So whether to believe them, who knows. Management there not particularly helpful in discussing issue with them.

Local dealer service manager totally playing by the book. AOS - “is it aftermarket? We don’t work on aftermarket cars”. “Is it chipped? Did owner chip it to add more power”? I have no idea, I all I can do is hope for the best.

Just thought buying from a dealer that they would have vetted the car before taking it in for sale, and more peace of mind than buying personally. What made me laugh (not funny at all) is my wife had called down after me and the GM told her ( we wanted them to pay for flatbed service down) that is seemed silly just “to have an oil change”. Ridiculous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Had oil drained, oil filter opened, filter had one small fleck, that’s it. I’ll still send oil off to Blackstone just because, but I am relieved. So don’t know if the flecks in the separator were from the media, or perhaps more likely from initial break in and previous owner never drained the can. Wow, I can breathe again.
 

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Yeah. A clean filter pretty much clears you. How did the oil in the pan look?

I’d clean that catch can out with brake clean (which they recommend every 10k miles) and go from there. Glad to hear the good fortune
 
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