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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All, just had my driver's door panel off to Dynamat and install new 3 way component speakers (Focal 165A3 system). My question is does the factory utilize a crossover (either passive or powered)? I could find no evidence of it but you never know where it might be located? The Focal system does have a passive crossover that I need to install, but need to understand the OEM set up first...

Thanks!!
 

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The only thing I’ve seen which could be construed as a crossover is usually mounted on the back of the tweeters (an in-line capacitor). Some Component amps will feed different speakers and may control individual frequency response if drivers are driven separately, but I doubt Ford went to that extreme. No coils on low range drivers, they just feed full spectrum because they will drop off eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The only thing I’ve seen which could be construed as a crossover is usually mounted on the back of the tweeters (an in-line capacitor). Some Component amps will feed different speakers and may control individual frequency response if drivers are driven separately, but I doubt Ford went to that extreme. No coils on low range drivers, they just feed full spectrum because they will drop off eventually.
Thanks Jim, I tend to agree with you as my center speaker in the 2016 F-150 had that same set-up mounted on the backside as well. Wanted to share with everyone that the Metra Adapter Plate (82-5605 for 14 and up F-150) fits perfectly for the door woofers (6.5" mounts). Same mounting holes/height, etc as the factory speaker surrounds. I'm guessing at this point and will verify once I get to the rear deck that they will work there as well. Some You Tube vids show folks cutting off the OEM speaker surrounds to mount new speakers but not necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Another thing I'll need to figure out is that since Ford runs the A Pillar tweeter and 3.5" door mid range off of the same feed wires from the amp...the Focal Access 1 Crossover had a single set of input terminals with individual terminals running to the Woofer, Mid & tweeter. My initial thoughts are that I'm going to run both sets of input leads (see below) to the single set of input terminals...then run individually to each speaker from the crossover...(still going to research this before making any connections yet).

LF (Driver's door and A Pillar)
WH + WH/BR - 6.5" Door Sub
GN/BU + GY/BU - 3.5" Door Mid
GN/BU + GY/BU - A Pillar Tweeter - tapped off of the 3.5" Door Mid
 

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I need an EWD (Electrical Wiring Diagram) on the car... blind to Fords way of wiring, sorry.

I would take wiring to the door driver to your new speaker/ crossover and run mid range and tweeter off crossover outputs. Some amps will stop working if open is seen in speaker wiring. A lot to watch for. Oh, for an EWD I’d have a direct answer for you. ��
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I need an EWD (Electrical Wiring Diagram) on the car... blind to Fords way of wiring, sorry.

I would take wiring to the door driver to your new speaker/ crossover and run mid range and tweeter off crossover outputs. Some amps will stop working if open is seen in speaker wiring. A lot to watch for. Oh, for an EWD I’d have a direct answer for you. ��
Thanks Jim, I will consider that as well. Been bz but will check with a few other forums and see what others are doing - since the 9 speaker "Shaker" system is common across the various Mustang models. I have noted in several threads, some sound shops are replacing the 3-way crossover system with a 2-way crossover system. Could be due to Ford's wiring, but not sure...since the mid and tweeter's feed off the same amp output leads, could be that our system is really a 2-way anyways. To further cloud the picture Ford uses DSP (nothing new) to limit the head unit/amp output to not blow the cheap, 25 watt OEM speakers. I'm still schooling on this aspect, but would like to eliminate those limitations as the new speakers will be able to easily handle the extra output. And still looking into adding an amp for the door speakers as well as a sub/amp for rear tire well area.
 

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Thanks Jim, I will consider that as well. Been bz but will check with a few other forums and see what others are doing - since the 9 speaker "Shaker" system is common across the various Mustang models. I have noted in several threads, some sound shops are replacing the 3-way crossover system with a 2-way crossover system. Could be due to Ford's wiring, but not sure...since the mid and tweeter's feed off the same amp output leads, could be that our system is really a 2-way anyways. To further cloud the picture Ford uses DSP (nothing new) to limit the head unit/amp output to not blow the cheap, 25 watt OEM speakers. I'm still schooling on this aspect, but would like to eliminate those limitations as the new speakers will be able to easily handle the extra output. And still looking into adding an amp for the door speakers as well as a sub/amp for rear tire well area.
Can anyone post the Shaker Audio System EWD?

I guarantee you any design incorporates less wire not more. Copper isn’t cheap. Wiring is a cost cutting area for all manufactures. They can almost make a one wire car based on networking of the computers (which they do).
If there is any plans of running anything audio at higher amp than stock I would be upgrading speaker wiring anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Installed the rear deck Focal 165 AC rear deck co-axial speakers last night. Amazing how cheap the factory deck speaker is, weighs about as much as a postage stamp (seriously). I don't think it even has a magnet. The Focal speakers sound better but I still need to address the DSP processing from the head unit...I need to find if there is an aftermarket signal processor that can change the "dumbed down" signal from head unit...don't know if this could be a part of an amp or a separate audio device. Also need to determine if the OEM amp is simply sending on the DSP signal from HU or doing some sort of processing itself. Time to visit a sound shop and see what I can learn...

On another note, I used the Metra 82-5605 Speaker Plate adapter, same height and mounting holes as OEM. No need to reuse OEM speaker mount. Also the Metra Speaker Wiring Harness 72-5602 made connecting the Focals a plug-n-play, no splicing necessary.


Rear Shelf Speakers.JPG

Rear Shelf Speaker 2.JPG
 

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I have the 9 speaker Shaker in my 350 and was thinking about installing a JL Audio amp and 2 6 1/2" woofers in the package shelf.

Was wondering did the focals you installed make a dramatic difference?

I'm trying to get some addional highs as well as additional base without tearing the car apart.
 

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I have the 9 speaker Shaker in my 350 and was thinking about installing a JL Audio amp and 2 6 1/2" woofers in the package shelf.
Was wondering did the focals you installed make a dramatic difference?
I'm trying to get some addional highs as well as additional base without tearing the car apart.
WARNING! DON'T DO IT.
I also wanted more depth out of the sound when I first got the car and took it to my hi-end stereo shop here in San Diego (they work on all the expensive exotic cars) and they told me that the Shaker system has to use the Shaker speakers, if you replace them with different speakers there is an unwanted side effect, a sound that is like when you are driving a sedan and one of the back windows is down a crack and it gives an unbearable rumble sound. This has something to do with how the GT350's exhaust sound is fed through the Shaker amp system.
The only way to use aftermarket speakers is if they come up with a module that will allow for this connect, but at the moment there is none.
just live with the system as is. I've found that if I turn the stereo way up it's not that bad.
 

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WARNING! DON'T DO IT.
I also wanted more depth out of the sound when I first got the car and took it to my hi-end stereo shop here in San Diego (they work on all the expensive exotic cars) and they told me that the Shaker system has to use the Shaker speakers, if you replace them with different speakers there is an unwanted side effect, a sound that is like when you are driving a sedan and one of the back windows is down a crack and it gives an unbearable rumble sound. This has something to do with how the GT350's exhaust sound is fed through the Shaker amp system.
The only way to use aftermarket speakers is if they come up with a module that will allow for this connect, but at the moment there is none.
just live with the system as is. I've found that if I turn the stereo way up it's not that bad.
I have heard the same thing concerning fiddling with the Shaker system on many threads. Better answer, exhaust in performance mode and the windows open.
 

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I have heard the same thing concerning fiddling with the Shaker system on many threads. Better answer, exhaust in performance mode and the windows open.
I hear ya - the sound is really the whole point - but back to the stereo - what I was thinking is maybe do as the post I saw earlier on the mustang6g site (the video has been taken down from Youtube for some reason ....)

Remove the rear speakers replace with 6 1/2" subs - JL Audio 6W3v3-4 on the back shelf add a JL Audio JX250/1D AMP - use the rear speaker connectors to tap into for the AMP.....

Oh yeah when I'm in performance mode my buddy can hear me coming several blocks away....
 

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- what I was thinking is maybe do as the post I saw earlier on the mustang6g site Remove the rear speakers replace with 6 1/2" subs - JL Audio 6W3v3-4 on the back shelf add a JL Audio JX250/1D AMP - use the rear speaker connectors to tap into for the AMP......
I don't think you are hearing what Jim & I are saying, but good luck to ya and let us know how it turns out.
 

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So here is the update -

I purchased the GT 350 Audio kit from Auto Fanatic (He has a number of posts on YouTube).

His system install video was pulled by Goggle due to music rights issues. You can ping him and he can fill you in on cost and other details.

The Kit comes with 2 subs, 2 rear deck mounts for the rear shelf, cables and various other items plus excellent instructions. I bought a JL Audio MX 500/1 AMP and a Stinger amp cable kit. Auto Fanatic recommends the JL Audio JX 250 /D. I went with the MX for several reasons including the small foot print. I spent 2 days doing the install. A lot of time was spent running around town getting stuff and also feeding the AMP power cable thru the firewall and into the battery box.

Once completed I test all audio features as well as all Sync 3 features. Eveything works perfect.

FYI - the rear deck shaker speakers are gone......

A couple of photos - power cable under battery tray JL Audio AMP.

A v%WsbZZSSIqpxU9CAJodrQ.jpg Py2ldb5nSMaMtVi3Bnd9AQ.jpg big win - the system sounds awesome.

So it works great, no system issues sounds awesome. 2 thumbs up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So here is the update -

I purchased the GT 350 Audio kit from Auto Fanatic (He has a number of posts on YouTube).

His system install video was pulled by Goggle due to music rights issues. You can ping him and he can fill you in on cost and other details.

The Kit comes with 2 subs, 2 rear deck mounts for the rear shelf, cables and various other items plus excellent instructions. I bought a JL Audio MX 500/1 AMP and a Stinger amp cable kit. Auto Fanatic recommends the JL Audio JX 250 /D. I went with the MX for several reasons including the small foot print. I spent 2 days doing the install. A lot of time was spent running around town getting stuff and also feeding the AMP power cable thru the firewall and into the battery box.

Once completed I test all audio features as well as all Sync 3 features. Eveything works perfect.

FYI - the rear deck shaker speakers are gone......

A couple of photos - power cable under battery tray JL Audio AMP.

A View attachment 8481 View attachment 8489 big win - the system sounds awesome.

So it works great, no system issues sounds awesome. 2 thumbs up.
Nice work hobbie 1, I've been busy elsewhere and haven't gotten back to the audio upgrade yet. There are numerous post over on Mustang 6g about disabling the "fake" engine noise via FORScan as well. Would you mind PM'ing me Auto Fanatic's contact info. I'd ike to check out his option as well.
 

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about disabling the "fake" engine noise via FORScan.
Yeah what you are talking about is called an Active Feedback System, where the exhaust sound is fed back into the car's speaker system, this is very common on Shaker systems. I'm not 100% sure our car has active feedback but it sounds like it does, and when you amplify that sound it creates an unwanted drone sound.

Since other gt350 owners have been swapping out their speakers and have been happy I asked my stereo guy to dig into this further, so he ran my VIN# and and found that my car shows it has option code ICQAB (ICE NOISE REDUCTION MODULE) which means that it has ACTIVE NOISE CANCELLATION and possibly the exhaust noise feedback system. It's a 10-speaker system (9 main speakers and a subwoofer). The build codes do not specifically list the exhaust active feedback system, it only lists the ICQAB. He said I would be looking at aprox $8k to upgrade the audio system because we will need an audio processor to extract audio out of the Ford Sync system, upgrade the 8 main speakers in the cabin/subwoofer in the trunk and add a 1200 watt 5 channel amplifier.

$8k is out of my budget for this project so I'm not going to do it.
When I told him that some of you guys are just swapping speakers only with no issues and are happy with the results, he said that unfortunately just upgrading the speakers will not make a enough of a difference to justify the cost, the 10-speaker system in the car is actually a pretty decent system with 6 front speakers, center dash speaker, two rear speakers, subwoofer and amplifier.

This was the advice I was given but I'm interested in the results you your guy's installs.
keep up posted.
 

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Check my post - Per the Auto Fanatic kit I removed the 2 rear speakers installed his 2 sub's and the JL audio - the rest of the system is stock. Bass sounds awesome and no ill affects. Auto Fanatic has a GT 350 also.

Total spent with me doing the work was about $1300

That is what led him to build the kit. If your near Brentwood Northern CA I will have the car at the Diablo Valley Mustang show at Bill Brandt Ford June 9th.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah what you are talking about is called an Active Feedback System, where the exhaust sound is fed back into the car's speaker system, this is very common on Shaker systems. I'm not 100% sure our car has active feedback but it sounds like it does, and when you amplify that sound it creates an unwanted drone sound.

Since other gt350 owners have been swapping out their speakers and have been happy I asked my stereo guy to dig into this further, so he ran my VIN# and and found that my car shows it has option code ICQAB (ICE NOISE REDUCTION MODULE) which means that it has ACTIVE NOISE CANCELLATION and possibly the exhaust noise feedback system. It's a 10-speaker system (9 main speakers and a subwoofer). The build codes do not specifically list the exhaust active feedback system, it only lists the ICQAB. He said I would be looking at aprox $8k to upgrade the audio system because we will need an audio processor to extract audio out of the Ford Sync system, upgrade the 8 main speakers in the cabin/subwoofer in the trunk and add a 1200 watt 5 channel amplifier.

$8k is out of my budget for this project so I'm not going to do it.
When I told him that some of you guys are just swapping speakers only with no issues and are happy with the results, he said that unfortunately just upgrading the speakers will not make a enough of a difference to justify the cost, the 10-speaker system in the car is actually a pretty decent system with 6 front speakers, center dash speaker, two rear speakers, subwoofer and amplifier.

This was the advice I was given but I'm interested in the results you your guy's installs.
keep up posted.
Racer172, you might want to check out the threads over in the 6g forum. Start with the GT350 forum and they have both threads and links to upgrading the 9 speaker system. Several options, and way below $8K. Some have decided to add a woofer/amp to the spare tire well (still fitting the stock inflator components) that came out well. Subjective of course, but IMO, this sound system is one of the worst I've ever had in a new car...even worse than the Sony "Premium" system Ford was using in the F - 150's.
 
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