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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I emailed this company for some heat shield info for my starter .
Chose them because they`re American...Yay.
You've got to love this personal and professional approach.
I`ll be using them.




Steve-

Thank you for your email. I apologize for the novel. It will have typos and I am no wordsmith. I am a math and science person.

We are very familiar here at Heatshield Products with the GT350. I wish I owned one, but right now the only Shelby I own is a female husky named Shelby. Shelby American was recommending our Armor™ line of products to be used on the cats to prevent the transmission from overheating and causing the cars going into limp mode when at the track. They have since designed a diverter to improve the air flow under the GT350 to prevent this issue. If you look close at the Shelby piece you will see one part of it that looks very familiar.

The Lava™ Starter shields would be great for preventing heat soak failure. The failure occurs in the solenoid, that in turn prevents the starter from doing its job. One thing to keep in mind, if a starter has so much heat damage it may need to be replaced even after a shield has been installed. I recommend try just the shield first, if it still hangs up, replace the old starter, and install the shield on the new starter.

Thank you for providing the link to us, we really do appreciate you linking to our site. If I had more time, I would personally get on forums to help debunk a lot of BS out there. Regardless, I went ahead and jumped down the rabbit hole and visit the link to the thread. I also followed to the link at the end of the first thread and continued onto the CV boot issue. After reading that, I decided I needed to debunk a few more things. I wanted to also potentially assist on the CV issue as well. The other company mentioned there is a great marketing company. We could learn a lot form them in the aspect of marketing. We are an insulation company.

As far as the header/manifold goes, I would avoid wrapping it with a traditional wrap. Wrapping cast manifolds can have negative effects. Exhaust wraps get a bad rap for a lot of reasons most of them are because of bad information from other companies or people and bad installations. First, they do not cause condensation and cause pipes to rust. All of the fibers currently available for heat wraps - fiberglass, basalt (volcanic rock fiber), and silica are all highly water resistant. (We ignore ceramic fibers because those are Chinese crap. Not to mention ceramic fibers are very respirable and can embed in the lungs. Unfortunately, a lot of people go the cheap Chinese route thinking ceramic is better than fiberglass when in reality it some do not work as well as a fiberglass and runs serious health risks.) All the previously mention fibers resist water, they don’t trap it. Condensation happens inside the exhaust pipes as a natural byproduct to the combustion of octane: C8H18+O2→CO2+H2O. There is not condensation outside of the exhaust pipe, this is not a cold drink sitting outside in the summertime, this is a pipe containing hot exhaust gases. However, exhaust wraps can sometimes accelerate flaws in alloys used in the exhaust components and expose this flaw earlier than if the pipe had not been wrapped. If a high-quality steel/alloy is used there are no adverse side effects. There are some high-quality exhaust system manufacturers out there that will include wrap in some of their kits because they are using a high-grade alloy and thicker walled exhaust.

For cast manifolds, wraps can sometimes have devastating effects. Most cast manifolds do not have a thicker wall like say a turbine housing and wrapping a cast manifold can cause it to retain too much heat, fatigue the metal, and cause it to crack or warp. Therefore, we as a company have always told everyone to never wrap a cast manifold. We do have an alternate solution, the Header Armor™ Kit. This will allow you to cover 50-60% of the manifold, but still allow the manifold to breathe. Hotter exhaust gases do flow faster. The real gains in power are due to the lower under-hood temperature which results in lower IAT’s.



No wrap needs a silicone spray. This is BS. Start with a better wrap, make it as tight as possible to the pipe. Don’t spend more money than needed and add more weight to the vehicle than is necessary. If somehow people still won’t believe you, strongly recommend they go to an auto parts store or Summit and buy an exhaust paint of engine paint. Either of these will work fine and they are not buying some overpriced up spray so a company and put their sticker on it and take more of your hard-earned money. We get is some wraps are ugly or get old and people feel the need to touch them up from time to time, use the regular engine or exhaust paint if that is what you must do.

Stand off heat shields allow hot exhaust gas to escape outward from the pipe. There is a lot of eddying (circulating air) under a car in cavities up underneath of it. Heat radiated upward and around the “heat shield”. OEM’s use stand off heat shields because they are metal which when bolted to hot metal just conducts heat. The OEM theory is the air flowing under the metal heatshield will help to lower the temp of the metal shield that is bolted to the hot exhaust pipe. Works great when going 90 MPH, but terrible when stuck in traffic. I don’t blame engineers here for a lot of this, the bean counters will overrule engineers and use alternate designs that are less expensive. Alloy/metal shields are cheaper to manufacture vs a textile one therefore OEM’s use them. Sorry, went off on a tangent.

The clamp on shield mentioned in the CV thread is perplexing. I don’t blame the installer this is a marketing product. The shield pictured in this thread is a textile shield. Textile shields are superior in every way to a metal shield when it comes to creating a break in thermal energy…when used properly. We are big believers and promoters of textile shields. We dropped IAT’s by 30F in a McClaren by simply by replacing the factory Inconel shields with a custom textile shield. Knowing what I know about aerodynamics and thermal dynamics, I can only guess this product is exists strictly to sell something or the person who designed it has no clue how physics and chemistry work. Anytime we are trying to retain heat and protect surrounding components we are insulating and trying to retain heat. When we are retaining heat to protect components, it is imperative that the insulation be tight. We are to trap the heat inside the system. So sure, the outside temp of this standoff shield should be a hell of a lot cooler than the exhaust pipe, but what is it really doing? My guess is that far back in the car it is just diverting some air. You could achieve similar or potentially even better results using some scrap metal and covering it with aluminum foil to divert heat away from the boot. FYI in a pinch at the track aluminum foil works to keep things cool, it can be a useful tool in a pinch or on budget. You just need 1” minimum air gap and good air flow.

If the budget allows, I recommend these exhaust pipe heat shields to protect the CV. People may give you grief about the gap we leave, but this is 100% necessary. Because the Armor™ stops so much more heat than an exhaust wrap it needs to breathe. When we make products for industrial OEM’s, marine applications, and power generation they are using a thick wall exhaust. This can sustain a 100% coverage. Passenger cars and light trucks use thinner wall exhaust mostly for cost and fuel economy reasons. So because the Armor works so well, we need to allow these pipes to breathe a little bit so they do not warp. Truth be told, I have only seen it warp a header on 2 different occasions. Both were trucks racing off-road and they had covered the header on both sides and were racing in ambient temps of 120F. So let’s use the gap and let the pipe breathe just to be safe.

I do not blame people for using the products the way they do. This is why I had time to jump on forums and one of those things we are constantly trying to correct. Information that things that are misrepresented by other companies or so called “experts”. Here is an example, Heatshield Products was the first company to have a lava rock exhaust wrap. We just didn’t have the clever name and truth be told we did not (probably still don’t) market it as well. On our packaging and on our website we state a continuous use temp of 1200F others are rating it for 1800F or higher. I find that fascination since magma is molten anywhere between 1830F to 2200F.

I’m not trying to single one company out here, they all mistakes including us. When Heatshield does we try to make a correction quickly. We proudly promote the continuous or service temp and we also include the intermittent temp that our products are rated for 30 seconds or less. We will sell less by telling the truth, but we all sleep good at night.

FYI - Billy Johnson does drive fast, and I have it on good authority both BJ and Multimatic use a very good insulation company’s product.



Steve Heye

Heatshield Products, Inc.
(760) 751-0441​
“Unjust authority confers no obligation of obedience.” – Alexander Hamilton
 
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